(posted from individual writings, 14-15 October)
So I’m here on my hotel room balcony looking at the Pacific Ocean (technically, the Bahia del Manzanillo). I have never been on a true Pacific beach. The closest I got was Monterey, CA, but that was 1) way too cold (even in May) to enjoy the water, and 2) not much beach to speak of, mainly rocks. Unfortuantely, it’s so cloudy and drizzly (as it was in Monterey) that I am not going to realize the thing I wanted more than anything here–to see the sunset on the water. I came by myself because of some stuff that happened w/Claudia, and she agreed I shouldn’t let that keep me home and encouraged me to salvage what little vacation I could get for the four day weekend I had, so came by myself while she tended to her stuff.
I mention this change of plans because I downgraded the original room to the simplest accomodations, since it’s just me. Now that I’m in the sencillo (simple) room, I can’t imagine that the more expensive room would have been worth the money given it would be simply bigger with a king or 2 double beds (never know which you’ll get). I knew that this place was not resort-like, but it was rated highly by TripAdvisor. So, apparently, TripAdvisor is populated with a bunch of hippie gringos who think that lack of amenities makes things more “Mexican,” and that the notion that the less “inclusive”, the more out-of-the-way, and the more “rustic” (=run down shithole) the place is, the more of a fulfilling “native” experience they’ll get, since, after all, if they wanted The Hyatt, they’d have stayed in the U.S. Screw that. If I wanted to be uncomfortable, I’d have stayed at home and done chores. What do these people have against comfort and amenities? What’s the deal with these empty-nesters looking for a kibbutz or a hostel anyway? I want the mint on my pillow, dammit!
OK, let me say something right out–I hate bugs. I don’t mean little-girl-screaming-hate bugs, I mean I hate having to deal with them. I don’t want them in my stuff, I expect to be able to put a bag of chips on the nightstand, pop out my laptop, sip some water or Diet Coke, continue munching as I watch the latest episode of the newly-started season of Battlestar Galactica with no interruptions, and within 30 minutes not find the bag not where I left it, seemingly moving on its own volition towards the door carried by an army of little black ants.
I consider a vacation just that–a VACATION. I don’t want to clean up, I want to be comfortable, I want the room to be as cold as I want–suitable for hanging sides of beef from metal hooks if I so choose–and I think the concept of vermin, even harmless ones, like the little black “crack ants” (so named by a friend and me because they move erratically without any discernable purpose except when carrying food) should be a distant memory considering I’m 1) paying to stay here, and 2) the room gets cleaned daily. And I’ll give them that–the room was immaculately clean–it’s just that these little six-legged beasts are relentless. One thinks to pack “Off” on an outdoor vacation, not “Raid.”
One day however, long after “MD” has been attached to my name and freed of all residencies and fellowships (and also providing the trip is medically cleared by my geriatrician at the time), I will hopefully afford to come back and stay here. I bet they don’t have ants. Pfft.
When I first got here, I wanted to run out to the beach and just jump in the ocean, but I realized of all things to forget at home, I forgot my friggin’ flip flops. How in the sam hell can one forget flip flops when going to the beach?! Anyway, so I just removed my socks, went with my tennis shoes, but as soon as I got to the sand, I took off the shoes and went walking barefoot, careful not to step on any sharp shells or the like. I got about, oh 50 yards, when I realized I was starting to breathe heavily. WTF?! It had been so long since I walked in sand. I think I just discovered a new exercise regimen! Strip the entirety of my little postage stamp of a back yard, then raze it flat and go another 4 feet or so lower. Fill it with sand. Watch all the tachyarrythmias induced by my simply walking around my sadistically sandy backyard. Wait for HR to come down from the 200s, convert myself w/paddles if necessary, then whip me out the door. Repeat. After a few months,
I’ll be all buff before you can say “
tachypnea.”
Right now I am
La Huerta seafood restaurant, having to take off my glasses due to the sweat dripping on the glasses themselves as I type this…I can’t believe people live in this humidity. I look around, and the most I see is sweat/condensation beading on ppl’s foreheads. The locals are complaining, don’t get me wrong, but they don’t seem to be miserable. I’m almost at the point of needing gills to obtain the oxygen I need from this air. I am a city (or at least suburbian) dweller, plain and simple, so if it’s too hot/humid/etc. outside, I go inside where it’s climate controlled. That’s the
point of being inside, no? I ordered
ceviche as an appetizer. I have never had “dry” ceviche. What arrived was a shredded mix of fish cooked in lime, tomato and onion. No juicy cutlets of fish, no avocado, no yummy, fishy lime juice to slurp up in a cocktail glass when done. For shame.
For unknown, random reasons, I often think what a wonderful advantage it is to speak Spanish. So many of my classmates don’t want to for whatever odd reason (why come here, then?), but they resist. I can go anywhere, do anything, conduct business, negotiate prices, etc. in a foreign country. That’s cool. I take it for granted by now, but every now and then, I see myself from the 3rd person (it’s the haldol, probably..heh), saying, “Dude, you’re in a foreign country!” Then the Bill and Ted voice goes away, and I resume my normal activities.
Both the worker at the hotel and my waiter said this kind of heat and humidity is uncharacteristic. Ever since the Hurricane John, things haven’t been right, they said. It’s so bad, I can’t even take decent pictures, it’s so overcast. I feel like a lame tourist, taking what shots I can take from inside my truck or from a covered restaurant deck, etc. It’s not like me–I’m the kind that goes up a hill, puts the camera on a stick–whatever it takes to get that “perfect” shot, but a photographer (I use that term loosely on myself) can’t create a shot that simply isn’t there. Nature 1, Rico 0.
OK, my 2nd margarita arrived. It’s so strong, I think I can light the top of it and leave it to illuminate this gray day. Barring that, I’m sure it’s disinfectant properties are not to be questioned. Nature 1, Rico 1.
“
Huachinango” (wah-chee-NAN-go, red snapper) is one of my favorite Spanish words. I am mentioning this now, because a beautifully filleted specimen, head and spine artfully presented, has just arrived at my table.
Huachinango is just one badass-sounding word.
Cacahuate (ka-ka-WAH-teh, peanut) is probably my most favorite, though. Most
Náuhatl (Aztec) words are insane to pronounce and/or spell.
Popocatépetl, for example, is the largest volcano in Mexico, is one I have yet to conquer, but I think that’s a mental block. I shocked myself after-the-fact by saying, without even thinking,
farmacodinamicamente (pharmacodynamically) to our pharm prof in a sentence while asking a question after class the other day, and that’s 9 syllables!
Speaking of Aztec names, I routinely torture my mother by saying that my firstborn son will be named Cuauhtémoc (kwow-TEH-mock) since, in spite of her and my entire family’s Mexican heritage, she doesn’t like things too Mexican. Don’t be confused, she’s consistently inconsistent, such as liking chiles that aren’t hot and fish that doesn’t taste fishy. Having a baby named Cuauhtémoc Huitzilopochtli (born in the heart of Mexico, no less) would drive her to drink.
The water is a place of healing for me. It always has been. I love the water, especially the ocean. I have lived near a major body of water all my life–South Padre Island, Galveston (in spite of the horrible beaches), and the Chesepeake Bay–all were within an hour’s drive for 90+% of my life. Now I have a bit further to go, but it’s still a day trip at least. I don’t need to be on a beach–in fact, I prefer to be on a rock(s), listening to the seagulls, watching the sand life as the tides ebb and flow. The roar of the sea speaks to me in a language I don’t understand but that I feel. Even a lake’s serene, glassy surface has its own hidden power lying underneath. Both the little high-pitched lappings at the lake’s edge and the undulating roar of a massive ocean evoke the primal memories of our fluid-filled beginnings, bringing that maternal comfort that makes one feel that somehow, some way, things will turn out okay.