(originally written 7/26/05)
Well we finally made it into Mexico–a day late. The movers took forever to load the stuff on Monday, not leaving until after 3:00pm, so we just scrapped the day. It was very hard because the whole reason we came home in the first place was to help with my dad’s illness (and on Claudia’s side to help w/her family responsibilites), and my parents just came back in from Dallas this last Thursday. It’s been a mixed bag because I’m obviously elated to see my dad back and doing so well, but logistically it’s been horrendous because four months of their stuff was added to our stuff downstairs, time was not totally available to spend with them as much as we would have liked, etc. Even though we had the extra day, it wasn’t like it was a freebie to just relax–we still had an entire truck bed full of stuff to load. Once loaded the evening before, it was clear how much little knick-knacks one forgets/doesn’t think about (such as toilet paper, paper towels on the road) that consume your thoughts as they kick into “Oh God, what if I forget …. ”
But we left, crossed the border and had NO problems whatsoever. No red lights at either the bridge or the checkpoint. Claudia was hilarious because she was convinced we had to declare our stuff (and our dog, Lola). I told her our mantra was NOTHING TO DECLARE. Those are our magic words. We really don’t declare anything because other than possibly Lola, there’s nothing that wouldn’t be considered “personal effects” or need a special permit for.
However it was clear that driving that first highway from Ciudad Camargo to Monterrey that Mexican highways pretty much suck. There’s no shoulder, most always just one lane for each direction, and sudden, unexpected potholes that just appear. I was convinced that I broke a tire rim w/in the first hour when I struck a lunar crater-sized pothole at 70mph. Getting behind 18-wheelers is the worst, although I discovered that they signal with their turn signal when the oncoming lane is clear to pass.
That is, unless you have Angry Truck Man on your ass. I swear, for 90 minutes I was competing with this pissed off pickup truck driver who knew EVERYONE on the road since he waved to everyone else. He obviously didn’t know me, because I think unless he was waving with one finger, he wasn’t waving hello to me. I’d pass someone, and he’d come up on my tail, then speed ahead of me, then slow down, repeat. It was annoying but funny at the same time because I couldn’t for the life of me figure out if he was working or just driving for the hell of it.
On our way to Monterrey we passed through a town named Dr. Gonzalez. I was hungry but as we were to find out for our whole trip, there isn’t a single frickin’ place to eat anywhere unless you like shack taco/torta stands. There are no McDonalds, no Burger Kings, Dairy Queens, Whataburgers or even frickin’ real consumables in gas station/convenience stores. Hell, half the gasolineras don’t even sell food, you just get gas. Anyway, in this town, I needed to take a leak but there were no bathrooms even in the “restaurant” (a term used if one sells food and has a chair to sit in outside). I asked where they went, and they pointed to a non-functioning toilet that they flush by pouring a bucket of water into the bowl, if it’s not backed up even then. I looked at it, and the opaque God-knows-what contents combined with floating cigarette butts was a bad portent of things to come.
We finally get to Monterrey, or what I thought was Monterrey–it was actually a town called Apodaca, just 15km or so before Monterrey proper. It was full of maquilas (factories) for Whirlpool and a bunch of other American products. Other than the scenic mountains that were slowly coming up as we neared Monterrey, I felt the feeling I’ve always felt about that city–grimy, hot and industrial. The mountains, while picturesque, even underscore the rocky, desolate feel that is Nuevo Leon at this point. There is no greenery hardly at all. Hell, even pulling over to walk Lola was a challenge to find a tuft of grass for her to scope out to do her business.
We finally made it through Monterrey on the way to Saltillo to turn off to the autopista de cuota (paid toll) where they charge you for the privilege of what we take for granted in the US: a shoulder and two lanes of thru traffic. I’d gladly fork out money each and every time. Hell just to have a shoulder to ease into when an 18-wheeler comes at you not really minding the yelllow line on a curve is a blessing, much less an entire median. It’s also not just the lack of a shoulder for space reasons–once the pavement ends for the lane, IT ENDS. There can be inches of height difference between the pavement lip and the adjacent ground, so having your right-side tires slipping down to unpaved ground by 4″ at 70mph is not a good thing.
We finally made it to San Luis Potosi, pushing through until 9pm, to stay the night and have what we hope is an easy 3.5 hour drive to GDL tomorrow.